Skip to main content

Helen and Jane Adventures: Part 1

My previous entries covered the first impressions between the two machines. And with both of them I have a bit of exploration to go through before I can say definitively anything about the design.

Helen (16010) & Jane (16011)







One thing I can say for both of these machines, they are strong. You can feel the power when working with them. And neither of them are particularly loud for their strength. Working on these vintage machines, you feel like you are unstoppable in comparison to the computerized machines I have worked with (Bernina Bernette 25 is my go to dearest). They have the same feeling as I get with my mechanical near industrial serger (Juki MO-735). They go through the material like there is nothing there. This was even the case when on Helen, I hadn't quite corrected the bobbin issue and I was destroying my needle points.


I also know that Jane is more than capable on hemming jeans. She's the machine that got me into this mess in the first place. I that serger I have just couldn't hem. My guess is it was because of "Pebkac"  (Problem Exists between Keyboard and Chair), but either way I found Jane and found my solution. And she had no issue with this.

At first blush, before any and all of the problems I have had between the two machines are corrected (eg. Helen's slipping stitch width, and Jane's drop feed issue), I'd pick Jane. The 16011 just has a better design. Especially that Reverse Stitch modifier. If nothing else, it feels more sure when moving it, AND since there is more space between each letter, you can tune it in better for your purposes. The knob resistance when turning it just feels more secure, an based upon the internal mechanisms IS more secure.

I don't care much for Jane's stitch missing, but I'll be investigating that when I look at her drop feed problem.

Being that they are essentially version 1.0 and 1.1 of each other, this makes sense. The ideal whenever a design change is made is either to improve something (like a customer complaint) or decrease manufacturing costs. In this case, I'm likely to say that it was an improvement change. The internal mechanism that is used now for the modifier is more complex and likely took additional tooling to make.

And without having tested any of the other machines in my queue, I can talk about the 1601 and if it should be purchased for your purposes. I'm going to make a broad gesture that includes the 16012 for the time being, once I get my hands on one of those I'll be sure to update more appropriately.

When in the market for a sewing machine, and willing to consider a vintage one:

Perks of a 158.1601x:
  • Strong motor
  • Smooth, and beautiful operation (purrs?)
  • Easy to adjust
  • Clean and simple design
  • Great overall width for stitches.
  • Accessories, accessories, accessories
    • Super High Shank feet allows for so clean looking space when viewing your project, and less stuff for thread to catch on.
    • Can use any 1 & 2 layer C-Cam (50 to choose from)
      • Not limited to only built in stitches
    • Compatible with most Kenmore Buttonholers of that era
  • Great extended lift to get material under the presser foot
  • Adjustable presser foot pressure
  • Instruction Manual is excellent if you can find one
  • Needles are easy to install
  • Vertical bobbin provides wonderful lock stitches
  • Pop off top makes easy maintenance
  • Flat bed design also makes easy maintenance
  • Easy access to the light blub
  • Overall metal construction
Risks of a 158.1601x:
  • Accessories, accessories, accessories
    • Super High Shank Feet
      • Adapters are available to low and snap on feet, but that will be an expense and a bit more hassle when changing feet.
    • All the external accessories require additional space to store
    • Buttonholers require bed adapter of the right size
  • No compatible chain stitching
  • No monogrammers out of the box
  • Fewer built in stitches
  • HEAVY (30+ lbs.)
  • No free arm
  • Vintage machine concerns
    • Hard to find parts
    • Needing a good scrubbing

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

The Kenmore Adventure: Prologue

Craigslist is a dangerous place. Not because of the shady deals for electronics or the occasional stolen car, but because for collectors and hunters of the curious it is a place where much of our money meets its fate. The story here starts with a craigslist ad about a series of sewing machine accessories. I do a search for sewing supplies pretty regularly. I find that often enough if I'm in need of a small little bit of thread or a cool button craiglist can help me out. This eventually led me to these feet I had never seen before, and a plastic box of cams I'd never seen outside of a sewing machine. I purchased it. Reassembled version of what I bought, it was missing bobbins and booklet Then I started my research. What machine did they go to? What is this shank height? Why is it slanted (I thought only Singers had slants)?, what era?  I know it is Kenmore and Sears because both are listed on the top of the case, my great Grandmother had a Kenmore from the late 1950's...

With patience, Buttons and cams....

You can make your own set of  'jams... Or Pajamas, pyjamas, PJs. The point is one of the stereotypical items on a nice set of top and bottom pajamas is the buttons and button holes. (Can you really imagine the Bananas in Pajamas in a t-shirt and shorts? Exactly!) If I must be formal the title of this post is: "Buttonholers for the Kenmore family Sewing Machines from the 60's and 70's." Much like the Monogrammer post previously, there are a few different style of buttonholers that came out with these eras of machines. Infact, there is a near identical trend with these gadgets. A matter of difference is that these gadgets don't ever get to use a hoop like the monogrammers. In general there are two styles of buttonholers in this era: bed specific, and shank specific. (Sound familiar??) The shank specific buttonholers of this era harken back to the buttonholers of the early straight stitch 117s, and the zig-zag 158s. They attach to the pre...