Skip to main content

On Fleece

Let's open up and be honest about fleece, the polyester kind, it's a version of a nightmare to work with. It's great for warmth and has that great texture that *most* people love. Unfortunately it has two things that drive people up the wall: STRETCH of knit fabrics, and BULK of high nap fabrics.

From a distance the fuzzy nap may make it look like it isn't woven (or knit), but it is so it has the normal fabric qualities like grain, cross-grain and bias. That fuzzy puff of a top tends to obscure the directions, the right and wrong side.

But never fear!

Most fleeces have the high level of stretch in the cross-grain, and the mid-level stretch in the bias, with the least stretch along the grain.  And the wrong side can be found by stretching along the cross-grain and seeing which way the fleece curls. It'll curl to the wrong side.

This is *really* helpful when it comes to figuring out how to construct fleece clothing.

For knitters: it's just like a project done in stockinette stitch, the project curls towards the back side of the project. The fleece is made on a very large loom which knits the fleece and then in the end for lack of a better word felts up the 'nap' (the texture). So when you pull on the cross-grain it curls just like any hand knit work.

So when the "How to Sew with Fleece" websites tell you that there are a few ways of going about these things, there really are.

Now that we've got that out of the way on to the recent fleece projects!

Photos Pending.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Helen and Jane Adventures: Part 1

My previous entries covered the first impressions between the two machines. And with both of them I have a bit of exploration to go through before I can say definitively anything about the design. Helen (16010) & Jane (16011) One thing I can say for both of these machines, they are strong. You can feel the power when working with them. And neither of them are particularly loud for their strength. Working on these vintage machines, you feel like you are unstoppable in comparison to the computerized machines I have worked with (Bernina Bernette 25 is my go to dearest). They have the same feeling as I get with my mechanical near industrial serger (Juki MO-735). They go through the material like there is nothing there. This was even the case when on Helen, I hadn't quite corrected the bobbin issue and I was destroying my needle points. I also know that Jane is more than capable on hemming jeans. She's the machine that got me into this mess in the first place. I that serger ...

The Kenmore Adventure: Prologue

Craigslist is a dangerous place. Not because of the shady deals for electronics or the occasional stolen car, but because for collectors and hunters of the curious it is a place where much of our money meets its fate. The story here starts with a craigslist ad about a series of sewing machine accessories. I do a search for sewing supplies pretty regularly. I find that often enough if I'm in need of a small little bit of thread or a cool button craiglist can help me out. This eventually led me to these feet I had never seen before, and a plastic box of cams I'd never seen outside of a sewing machine. I purchased it. Reassembled version of what I bought, it was missing bobbins and booklet Then I started my research. What machine did they go to? What is this shank height? Why is it slanted (I thought only Singers had slants)?, what era?  I know it is Kenmore and Sears because both are listed on the top of the case, my great Grandmother had a Kenmore from the late 1950's...

The Kenmore Ensemble: An Introduction

In this adventure there are 9 machines that will be tested. An important thing to note about the models for Kenmores of this era is the context of the naming scheme. "XXX.MM(MM)Y" The XXX being the general design numbers such as 117, 158, or 148. These often correlate with the manufacturer of the machine and the region of sale. MM(MM) mean while is the model. I have seen model numbers that are from two digits to four digits. All the models I'll be writing on in this series are four digits. Model Number and Serial Plate The last number is the Y, and is always the Y no matter how many M's precede it. It is often casually implied as the manufacturing year, 0 being the first year of manufacture. From what I've actually seen, it's more like revision number just like in modern computing when they go from 2.0 to 2.1. A major revision has been made, but it isn't different enough to be a new machine. With this, sometimes multiple revisions can happen in ...